Guest post today by Keenly Kristin... Kristin writes (what she hopes is) a witty blog out of Philadelphia. She enjoys shopping, reading, writing, napping, and spending summers at the Jersey shore (the place, not the show). She writes about all sorts of things, as long as it piques her interest enough to keep her from dozing off.
By Daniel Schwen (Own work), via Wikimedia Commons
As a rule, when people think “vacation,” they think sunny locales. And, hopefully, when they think about sunny locales, they should also be thinking “sunscreen.” There are tons (OK, not tons, but a lot) of choices when it comes to sunscreen options. So, how can you be sure you’re choosing the best sunscreen for you and your family? Yep, we can add “sunscreen safety” to the list of safety issues. It’s true.
Have you heard that some sunscreens contain “potentially” dangerous ingredients? Me too. Let’s talk about that.
Sunscreen Safety: What’s in your sunscreen?
There’s oxybenzone, which is a UV filter. When fed to animals in large amounts (which might be a whole different reason you don’t want to use a sunscreen containing this ingredient), it interacts with hormones. However, clinical professor of dermatology Darrell Rigel, MD, FAAD, says that it would take three decades to get to the same level that the lab rats were fed — and that’s if you smear sunscreen with oxybenzone all over you every single day. OK, so it’s not terribly conclusive or “frightening,” but if you don’t like to use products that are tested on animals…you might want to steer clear of sunscreen that contains oxybenzone.
Let’s move on to retinyl palmitate. This substance is derived from Vitamin A and is intended to reduce the signs of aging. It does not filter UV rays. This one is worth a look. While you’ll only find this ingredient in a handful (OK, more than a handful, but not most) of sunscreens, it’s not really vital to the sunscreen. It’s kind of a perk rather than an ingredient that lends itself to sunscreen safety. Except it’s a perk that has been shown to have a possible connection with, of all things, skin cancer, in research on lab mice. (Again, animal testing.)
“Experts” fall on both sides of the retinyl palmitate issue; assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine Debra Jaliman (who holds an MD and FAAD) says, “I would never use retinyl palmitate…I always avoid the ones with retinyl palmitate.” She also wrote Skin Rules: Trade Secrets from a Top New York Dermatologist. Others say there’s nothing to worry about. Former president of the American Academy of Dermatology Henry Lim, MD, refutes that assessment, and said in a WebMD article that the substance has been used for 30+ years and there’s no indication that it leads to skin cancer. “Bottom line: It’s safe,” he says.
Then there are nanoparticles, like zinc and titanium dioxide, which are in “mineral sunscreens.” You probably know the stuff…the stuff that you apply to rashes and irritations in the diaper area. Or that you used to see smeared on the noses of lifeguards. Well, now those ingredients are micro — or “nano” sized — so that they can be applied to your skin without causing that white color. The question is, can those nanoparticles get into your body? And, more important, what is their effect on sunscreen safety? The experts’ opinions are, again, mixed.
The Environmental Working Group says yes. According to Jaliman, you want to steer clear of nanoparticles because “they are showing up in the liver and in the bloodstream, and they are banned in a lot of places.” Eek. That doesn’t bode well. But, if you listen to Lim, it’s not so cut and dry. Lim says there’s no definitive proof that nanoparticles can invade your body. However, he does note that “if the skin is broken, for example with eczema…we don’t have a good answer for [whether nanoparticles would enter the body].”
If you’re worried about nanoparticles, you can look for “non-nano” in the active ingredients section…but sunscreens don’t have to mention whether they include nanoparticles. In an article in Delicious Living magazine, the Environmental Working Group warned that there are some sunscreen safety concerns when it comes to nanoparticles in sprays, as they can cause lung damage if inhaled. Further, research indicates a danger concerning titanium dioxide nanoparticles — chlorine can cause it to react with water and form compounds “that could contribute to skin damage and even cancer.”
It is worth noting that the American Academy of Dermatology, the Skin Cancer Foundation, the FDA, and the Personal Care Products Council all support the use of these ingredients in sunscreens. But, they also urge the use of hats and clothing with an SPF-rating while in the sun. In addition, they encourage individuals to avoid the sun during hours when sunlight is most intense. So, that goes quite a bit further than just sunscreen safety.
Which SPF is best when it comes to Sunscreen Safety?
While the issue of “SPF” might seem pretty cut and dry…it’s not. For instance, when you pick up a sunscreen with an SPF of 15, you know that means that it “should” take 15 times as long to get a sunburn than if you went out in the sun with no sunscreen. So, if you are the type of person who might get red after sitting in the sun for, say 20 minutes, with SPF 15, you could sit in the sun for…300 minutes before getting red, right? Wow, that sounds like a lot of sunscreen safety!
Whoa. Not so fast.
For SPF to be that effective, you need to use an awful lot of it — like a thick, thick coating. So, a good rule of thumb is to cut the SPF number in half, which is pretty much the protection you’re actually getting. At least, that’s what the American Academy of Dermatology advises.
And, believe it or not, you have no reason to buy sunscreen that has an SPF of more than 50. According to the FDA, there just doesn’t seem to be proof that sunscreen can offer that much protection against the sun.
Regardless of the SPF number you buy, you’ll probably notice that any sunscreen you now buy advises that you re-apply it at least every two hours.
Sunscreen Safety: Is my sunscreen waterproof/sweatproof/sunblocking/broad-spectrum?
Um, probably not.
In fact, you’re simply not going to see those claims on your sunscreen anymore. You might see “resistant” and “sunscreen” but those other descriptions are actually going away. Like, literally going away. Further, if a sunscreen is water-resistant or sweat-resistant, the brand will have to tell you if that resistance lasts for 40 minutes or 80 minutes. At that point, you need to reapply the sunscreen.
As far as sunscreen safety goes, there is no question that you need to reapply sunscreen frequently in order to reduce your risk. Keep in mind, though, that all experts advise against sun exposure altogether. Sonya Lunder, a senior analyst for the Environmental Working Group, told Delicious Living Magazine that “Consumer expectations [of sunscreens] are too high,” and pointed out that there is no proof that sunscreen prevents skin cancer, or malignant melanoma.



…. and now I am going to get a huge hat for my upcoming beach trip. Crazy!
I would like to comment on the portion of this very relevant and important piece on the safety of nano-sized sunscreen agents. The safety and utility of these ingredients have been grossly misrepresented here, as they often are by non-scientific non-profit organizations like the friends of the earth (the environmental working group actually have supported the use of nanosunscreens in the past in the form of creams and lotion for several years now - dr jailman is incorrect about this and other statements in this article which will be discussed below). There have been calls for bans of these products in australia, however none have actually come to pass given the basis for these bans are on test tube or cell culture tests in a laboratory, not actually on living human skin.
What are the issues that you need to know and from where does this scare come:
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are photocatalyst, meaning they can create free radicals upon exposure to sun light. These agents have been used for decades as effective sunblocking ingredients so clearly not an issue. The concern then airses if the nano-sized version of these ingredients, penetrate the skin, are taken into cells, and THEN generate free radicals. ALL EVIDENCE TO DATE SHOWS THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN. In fact, studies out of australia even in human diseased skin, such as eczema and psoriasis, have shown that these products do not get past the outer layer of the skin called the stratum corneum (Prow T et. al.).
One of the main reasons for the discrepency between these lab invetsigations and every day life is that commericially available nanosunscreens are purposefull designed to not penetrate the skin. Coatings enhance aggregation as well as limit the ability of these materials to get past that top layer. This has been demonstrated in human skin many times over.
With respect to getting into the blood stream, there was one study once again out of australia showing that after repeated applications of a zinc oxide nanosunscreen, there was a small increase in zinc levels in the blood,. The authors reported that they could not say whether this is from penetration of the nanoparticles through the skin, or rather it was from zinc ions breaking away from these particles that did it. Therefore, to say “yes, nanoparticles get into the blood strem through the skin” is an overstatement to say the least.
While I agree more oversight and research is needed, it is alos imperative that fact be separtated from fiction in a meaningful way that does not dissuade consumers from using sunscreens, the best and most effective method for preventing the harmful effects of sun exposure such as accelerated skin aging and of course, skin cancer. It is important that members of the dermatologic community, such as Dr Henry Lim, continue to offer evidenced based information to dismiss unsubstantiated claims.
Adam Friedman, MD,FAAD
Director of Dermatologic Research
Montefiore-Einstein College of Medicine
Vice President, Nanodermatology Society
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