5 things you’re doing wrong on the Curly Girl Method

At the beginning of July I decided to go back to being faithful to the curly girl method of hair care. But after a month I wasn’t seeing any changes to the way my hair looked of felt and I was ready to abandoned the whole thing. But instead of give up, in the middle of August I went and got an official Deva Cut and that stylist opened my eyes to a number of things I had been doing wrong. These simple changes have already made a profound difference in the look and feel of my curls. They have made me excited to stay on the curly girl routine and to see how my hair develops and changes in the months ahead.

5 Things You’re Doing Wrong on the Curly Girl Method:

ONE:: Not cleansing your hair upside down.

For years I followed the instructions and made sure to run product in from root to tip, but I did so right side up. As a result, the top of my head always looked flat and lifeless. After getting a deva cut where the stylist made me stand with my head bent forward over the bowl, he made me promise to wash my hair upside down and I’m already seeing a difference in the way my hair sits on my head, and the way it curls. Honestly, this might be the single most effective thing I’ve found that has made a difference for my curls.

TWO:: Using too much product.

I get it. When you’re using a product that doesn’t foam, it can be hard to tell if your actually getting your scalp clean. The temptation then is to use more product, just in case. But more product can cause build up on your scalp, creating the opposite effect you were hoping for when you used an extra dab of no-poo or cleansing conditioner.

Even conditioner, which can be used in copious amounts for most of us, can be overused while on the curly girl method. If your hair is looking dirty after a day or feels like their is product still there, chance are your products are weighing your hair down instead of building it up. Try using less and see if that makes a difference for your curls.

THREE:: Moving the diffuser frequently.

Maybe as a teen I missed the diffuser 101 lesson I should have received - okay, I definitely missed it. But from all the videos I’ve seen and people I’ve talked to, most of us are making. The same mistake - moving the diffuser too often while drying our hair.

I’ve shied away from using a diffuser for years because it left my hair looking frizzy and didn’t seem to help my curls at all. Then the deva cut stylist told me I should take the diffuser, place it at the ends, push up toward the root to maintain the curl pattern and then hold the diffuser there for a time. I count to 65 and then move the diffuser backwards in the same way I moved it toward the roots. Then I do the same thing on another section of hair. This technique keeps my curls locked in place as they were when I got out of the shower, and make my curls frizz free.

FOUR:: Not using enough water.

When I first realized I had curly hair - hello high school and hormones - I remember noticing that my curls did best when I applied gel to my hair as it was still dripping wet from the shower. And then over the years when it wasn’t cool or feasible to have a wet back and hair dripping while I went off to work, I lost this concept. But now I’m back to understanding how important water is for cleansing, conditioning and styling my hair.

I add the no-poo or low-poo I’m going to use to a bottle with a couple ounces of water and then apply that to my hair. The added water helps the cleanser spread evenly and means I need to use less product. I do the same with my conditioner.

I actually do the same with my styling gel too - putting it in a spritz bottle with water and then spraying that on my hair. This ensures that every curl gets covered and it also means that my hair doesn’t dry in a hard cast that needs to be scrunched out later.

FIVE:: Applying products in all different directions.

When you have curls, the key is to apply everything from root to tip. By doing this you are maintaining your hair’s natural curl pattern and you are helping to reduce frizz.

Apply your cleanser along the crown of your head and then using your fingers smooth it in my raking your hands through your curls from root to tip. I use one hand on the outside of my hair curtain and one on the inside to make sure I hit every section. I repeat this process with the conditioner and with the styling gel.

I was shocked at the difference it made to my curls.